If you had any doubts that the puff sleeve was on its way out, think again. “The puff sleeve is here to stay,” says Russo. While runway iterations tend to “go big or go home”—just take anything from buzzy Copenhagen-based designer Cecilie Bahnsen—there are plenty of less intimidating styles fit for the puff sleeve newcomer.
“From red carpet looks to your not-so-basic white tee, the puffy sleeve can modernize a classic silhouette,” says Russo. It’s also is a flattering style for all body types. “Adding drama and volume to your shoulder draws the eye up and gives the illusion of a smaller waist,” she adds.
We may have just entered a new decade, but ‘90s minimalism continues to be a key influence. “We saw the ‘90s dominate the runways for spring 2020, and Pre-Fall collections show no signs of this trend going anywhere,” says Libby Page, senior fashion market editor at Net-A-Porter. “From matching twinsets at Khaite, The Row, and Ioannes, to all things bodycon, including fitted ribbed turtlenecks and black leggings.”
It has staying power too, as proven by the ultimate ’90s It-Girl. “Jennifer Aniston brought us a lot of this inspiration in the ‘90s when she played Rachel Green, and she’s having a real moment with The Morning Show, making this trend still culturally relevant.”
Speaking of the ‘90s, the square toe is set to be the biggest footwear trend of 2020. We first fell in love with the squared off sandal last season, but as Russo points out that it has finally hit the mainstream. This season-less trend becomes cold-weather appropriate for fall in the shape of boots of all heights. Russo is particularly fond of knee high styles from brands like Ganni and Wandler while we love the more wearable aspect of the ankle boot, which pairs well with both dresses and jeans alike.
The prairie dress craze is taking on a softer, feminine feel for 2020. As Nordstrom’s senior fashion director Shannon Schafer points out, prairie-inspired pieces with an air of romance are set to be a wardrobe staple all year long. “There’s power in pretty this season. Modest dress silhouettes provide sensuous volume and comfort with sweeping lengths, high necks, and long sleeves,” she tells us.
Taking form in dresses and Victorian-inspired blouse, Page credits Greta Gerwig and her adaption of Little Women for the growing popularity of this trend.“Items such as a Victorian blouse, a floral print, lace and delicate finishings all are sure to be prevalent throughout this year’s collections.”
We’re seeing these dreamy pieces in a variety of patterns and textures—there are the lace numbers from Zimmermann’s Spring 2020 collection, sheer neons offered by Mara Hoffman, and plenty of animal print from Ganni—but Schafer declared florals as the key print for this silhouette.
The Daytime Clutch
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The clutch is having a major moment, and it’s giving the micro bag a run for its money. From soft pouches to more structured shapes, handle-bearing to handle-less, this bag style is moving beyond formal wear. “From structured to soft, this style was often seen mainly for evening but has now been reimagined in gorgeous fabrics and colors suited for day,” says Russo.
Daniel Lee—Bottega Veneta’s creative director and the man responsible for the “new Bottega” craze—launched the daytime clutch into the spotlight with the launch of his cult-favorite woven and pillow-like pouches of 2019. Russo named it the “must-have item” of 2020.
Shorts Of All Proportions
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Is 2020 the year we ditch skirts for shorts? According to Russo, it might be. “Spring 2020 will be about the short suit, matching sets, as well as separates,” she says. Shorts are typically considered to be exclusive to spring and summer, but Russo sees the trend sticking around all year for 2020. “It will continue into fall without longer lengths, such as culottes and Bermuda shorts, making it the fashion alternative to the skirt.”
If the thought of wearing Bermuda shorts in February makes you shiver, she offers an expert styling trick: Pair longer short silhouettes with an over-the-knee boot for a “legs or days” look that keeps you warm.
Strong Suiting With A Feminine Touch
Suit enthusiasts, rejoice: The tailored set is officially here to stay for 2020, and this year, it’s taking on a more feminine vibe. “Confident suiting continues with a feminine twist,” says Schafer. “Tailoring can be soft and relaxed, or sturdy and shapely.” Schafer adds that emphasis on the waist, as well as soft materials such as silks, linens, and crisp cottons will “evolve the masculine look of a blazer.”
We saw these feminine takes on suiting from the likes of Alexander McQueen, Altuzarra, and Dolce & Gabbana for spring, and we expect to see this trend follow through fall and winter in the form of lush jacquards, tweeds, and embroidered silks.
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According to Schafer, the bohemian trend is taking on a modern folk twist this year. “Touches of craft and folklore conjure rustic romance” she says. “Craft details and beautiful textiles add dimension to classic items and simple silhouettes." Think: breezy dresses and blouses with delicate embroidery, paisley prints, and eyelet fabrics.
From Missoni’s patchwork to the embroidery seen at Tory Burch and Ulla Johnson, modern folk had a strong presence on the runways. This modern hippie trend translates easily for colder months, in the form of heavy crochet knits and patchwork outerwear.
Not fully committed to the folk-bohemian look? Schafer suggests contrasting these pieces with sturdier workwear.
OUT – Logomania
With all of these new styles, what is best left behind in 2019? Both Russo and Page believe that one trend no longer has a place in fashion this year: logomania.
“There has been a return to clean lines and minimalism,” says Russo. “We’re seeing a lot less logos on clothing and accessories.” Page agrees, stating, “Logos are taking the backseat as fashion enters a new understated authority.”
This doesn’t necessarily mean it’s time to ditch our Fendi Zucca prints or Dior saddlebags (we could never!), but expect to see a shift towards cleaner silhouettes, solid colors and quieter patterns.
OUT – Matrix Sunglasses
According to Page, we’re saying goodbye to “Matrix sunglasses”—the skinny frames of the ‘90s that became popular during the tiny sunglass revival. Instead, Page recommends shopping for oversized aviators. “As fashion gets practical, so do your frames,” she says. “These styles are the new eyewear shapes that will actually protect you from the sun,” she says. 2020, the year of practicality.